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| Mrs D Crochets |
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Toasted Almond Crunch Socks
Size "D" Hook
Two 1.76 oz. skeins Red Heart Heart & Sole
(color shown: Toasted Almond, thus the name)
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 6 pattern stitches (sc, dc, sc, dc, sc, sc)
per inch. 4 pattern rows per inch.
Size "D" Hook
Two 1.76 oz. skeins Red Heart Heart & Sole
(color shown: Toasted Almond, thus the name)
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 6 pattern stitches (sc, dc, sc, dc, sc, sc)
per inch. 4 pattern rows per inch.
Toe (worked in rounds; increases are made in the increases of the previous round.)
Ch. 8
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There wil
eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not includeing the 8th ch). Sc in next 5 ch. 3 sc in last
ch. Sc in next 6 ch (across bottom of founation ch). Mark last stitch. 16 stitches in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
18 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 20
stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 22
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 24
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
34 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
36 stitches in round. Move marker to last stitch in this round.
Rounds 12 - 18: Sc in each st. 36 stitches in each round. Work 1 extra sc in last stitch
during Round 18. Move marker to this last stitch. 36 stitches in each round for Rounds 12 -
17; 37 stitches in Round 18.
Foot/Ankle/Calf (worked in rounds in crunch stitch pattern, increasing for instep, and
leaving space for an afterthought heel)
Round 19: Alternate dc and sc all the way around. 37 stitches in round.
Round 20: Alternate sc and dc, working scs in the dcs of the previous round and dcs in the
scs of previous round.
Rounds 21 and beyond: Repeat pattern established by Rounds 19 and 20, until sock is about
2-1/4" from the back of the heel when tried on (22 rows of the pattern stitch are shown in the
picture above, for a size 9/10 shoe).
Next Round: Lay sock flat with marked side facing up. Continue in pattern to the stitch at the
far left of the top of the sock. Ch 19. Skip 19 st. If the next st is a dc, dc and sc in it and dc
and sc in the next dc (if the next st is a sc, sc and dc in it, and sc and dc in the next sc).
Continue in pattern to the two stitches before the ch starts. Work two pattern stitches in each
of these next two stitches as appropriate.
Continue in pattern across the ch, and continue working the pattern in rounds until the desired
height (minus 1" for the top edge) is reached (38 rounds are shown in the socks pictured
above). End up at the center back of the sock with a sl st after the last sc. Do not fasten off.
NOTE: Just to be safe, I stopped a few rows past the heel opening (didn't fasten off),
and dug out the other end of the yarn from the center of the skein, using it to work the
heel. This was so I didn't have to worry about having enough yarn left to do the heel
once the sock itself was complete.
Top Edge (*or see Alternate Top Edge Below)
Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of ch 2.
Rounds 2 and beyond: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch all the way around. Mark last stitch with
stitch marker. Do not join. Sc in top of ch 1, and continue with 3 or 4 rows of sc as yarn
permits. Determine last stitch in round and end the round with a sl st in that last stitch.
Final Round: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to opt of ch 2.
Fasten off. Sew in end.
Alternate Top Edge
Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st all the way around to the end. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc and bpdc all the way around. The ch 2 will serve as a
bpdc, so end with a fpdc even if you have to combine the last two (which will happen if you
didn't have an even number of stitches in the round). Join w/sl st to top of turning ch 2.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bpdc and fpdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc and bpdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bphdc and fphdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of
turning ch 2. Fasten off. Sew in end.
Afterthought Heel
Round 1: There are 19 stitches available to work across the bottom of the heel opening.
Attach yarn to the 2nd stitch from the right o the bottom of the heel opening. Sc across the
bottom of the heel opening, combining the last stitch with the first stitch in the top of the heel
opening with a sc2tog. Sc across the top of the heel opening, combining last stitch with the
first stitch in the bottom of the heel opening. Do not join.
Round 2, etc.: Sc in starting ch and continue in rounds (8 rounds should work well), always
working an sc2tog at the ends of the opening (in other words, combining the stitches on either
side of each sc2tog of the previous round), thus reducing the size of the opening.
When there are about 11 or 12 unworked stitches on each the top and the bottom, fasten off
and leave a 12" or so tail. This tail will be at the right-hand side of the opening.
Turn sock inside out, thread the tail through a tapestry needle, and sew up the seam. Weave
in end.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at mrsd2688@yahoo.com.
Ch. 8
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There wil
eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not includeing the 8th ch). Sc in next 5 ch. 3 sc in last
ch. Sc in next 6 ch (across bottom of founation ch). Mark last stitch. 16 stitches in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
18 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 20
stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 22
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 24
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
34 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 7 st.
36 stitches in round. Move marker to last stitch in this round.
Rounds 12 - 18: Sc in each st. 36 stitches in each round. Work 1 extra sc in last stitch
during Round 18. Move marker to this last stitch. 36 stitches in each round for Rounds 12 -
17; 37 stitches in Round 18.
Foot/Ankle/Calf (worked in rounds in crunch stitch pattern, increasing for instep, and
leaving space for an afterthought heel)
Round 19: Alternate dc and sc all the way around. 37 stitches in round.
Round 20: Alternate sc and dc, working scs in the dcs of the previous round and dcs in the
scs of previous round.
Rounds 21 and beyond: Repeat pattern established by Rounds 19 and 20, until sock is about
2-1/4" from the back of the heel when tried on (22 rows of the pattern stitch are shown in the
picture above, for a size 9/10 shoe).
Next Round: Lay sock flat with marked side facing up. Continue in pattern to the stitch at the
far left of the top of the sock. Ch 19. Skip 19 st. If the next st is a dc, dc and sc in it and dc
and sc in the next dc (if the next st is a sc, sc and dc in it, and sc and dc in the next sc).
Continue in pattern to the two stitches before the ch starts. Work two pattern stitches in each
of these next two stitches as appropriate.
Continue in pattern across the ch, and continue working the pattern in rounds until the desired
height (minus 1" for the top edge) is reached (38 rounds are shown in the socks pictured
above). End up at the center back of the sock with a sl st after the last sc. Do not fasten off.
NOTE: Just to be safe, I stopped a few rows past the heel opening (didn't fasten off),
and dug out the other end of the yarn from the center of the skein, using it to work the
heel. This was so I didn't have to worry about having enough yarn left to do the heel
once the sock itself was complete.
Top Edge (*or see Alternate Top Edge Below)
Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of ch 2.
Rounds 2 and beyond: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch all the way around. Mark last stitch with
stitch marker. Do not join. Sc in top of ch 1, and continue with 3 or 4 rows of sc as yarn
permits. Determine last stitch in round and end the round with a sl st in that last stitch.
Final Round: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to opt of ch 2.
Fasten off. Sew in end.
Alternate Top Edge
Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st all the way around to the end. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc and bpdc all the way around. The ch 2 will serve as a
bpdc, so end with a fpdc even if you have to combine the last two (which will happen if you
didn't have an even number of stitches in the round). Join w/sl st to top of turning ch 2.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bpdc and fpdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc and bpdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of turning
ch 2.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bphdc and fphdc all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of
turning ch 2. Fasten off. Sew in end.
Afterthought Heel
Round 1: There are 19 stitches available to work across the bottom of the heel opening.
Attach yarn to the 2nd stitch from the right o the bottom of the heel opening. Sc across the
bottom of the heel opening, combining the last stitch with the first stitch in the top of the heel
opening with a sc2tog. Sc across the top of the heel opening, combining last stitch with the
first stitch in the bottom of the heel opening. Do not join.
Round 2, etc.: Sc in starting ch and continue in rounds (8 rounds should work well), always
working an sc2tog at the ends of the opening (in other words, combining the stitches on either
side of each sc2tog of the previous round), thus reducing the size of the opening.
When there are about 11 or 12 unworked stitches on each the top and the bottom, fasten off
and leave a 12" or so tail. This tail will be at the right-hand side of the opening.
Turn sock inside out, thread the tail through a tapestry needle, and sew up the seam. Weave
in end.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at mrsd2688@yahoo.com.
NOTE: Originally written for a size "D" crochet hook, I tried a size "F" hook for
the most recent pair I made. It's a little easier to use and makes a stretchier and
looser sock.
the most recent pair I made. It's a little easier to use and makes a stretchier and
looser sock.
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