|We have this system and
it's wonderful -- read my
|=D & J Construction=
authorized dealer for Pelican®
whole house water filtration
systems, shipped nationwide
or installed locally.
Make A Difference.
This is the basic granny square pattern I use.
This site (suggested to me by Mom w/a Motif over at Crochetville), is very helpful for
planning and folding a pillowghan.
For the squares with one flower in the middle: Do two rounds of Rose using the basic
granny square pattern. Fasten off. Join Forest Green. The clusters in the four corners are
done normally. For the clusters between corners, do a trc between the 1st and 2nd dc in the
cluster below, then a dc in the sp between the clusters of the previous row, then a trc between
the 2nd and 3rd dc in the cluster below.
When round is complete, fasten off Forest Green; attach Soft Sage and
do rounds 4 - 9; round 10 is Forest Green; round 11 (the joining round)
is Soft Sage.
For the squares with four flowers in the middle: Make four flowers as above (2 rounds of
Rose, 1 round of Forest Green). Attach Soft Sage for round 4 (the joining round). When all
four flower squares are joined together, do another round of Soft Sage and fasten off. Attach
Forest Green for the next round and then Soft Sage for the final (joining) round.
28 granny squares and no sewing!
Each square is 11 rounds, using a
size I hook.
4 skeins Caron One Pound #580 Soft Sage (I had a lot of
the fourth skein leftover)
1 skein Caron One Pound #534 Forest Green
1 skein Caron One Pound #517 Rose (two 7 oz.
skeins of a rose color would have been enough)
The mostly green squares (there will be a total of 14
of these) are nine rounds of Soft Sage, one round of
Forest Green, and 1 round (the joining round) of
To join squares while crocheting: Starting with Round 11 of the square to be joined,
proceed until you reach first corner. Instead of a ch 2 sp between the corner clusters, remove
hook and insert it through the ch 2 space in a corner of the square you are joining to (make
sure the "right" side of Round 11 of each square is facing you). Pick up the loop from the
square you are joining and pull through. Yo and pull through remaining stitches on hook. 3 dc
in the same ch 2 sp of the square you are joining (finishing the corner).
*Remove hook and insert it through the next sp between clusters of the square you are joining
to. Pick up the loop from the square you are joining, pull through, yo and pull through
remaining stitches on hook. 3 dc in next sp between clusters of square being joined*.
Continue as between *, joining side(s) of the square being joined to the side(s) of the square
being joined to.
Stop before joining corner to corner, because where 4 corners meet, a neater center can be
achieved by attaching only the corners diagonally across from each other.
But because the squares are joined diagonally, after the first three rows of four
squares each as shown above, here's where it can get a little tricky...
Before starting the fourth row of squares, it's easiest to do and attach to each other the four
squares that comprise the pocket of the pillowghan (the 2nd and 3rd squares in rows 5 and
6), and the identical four square piece that goes under it. Then the bottom right corner of the
first square in the fourth row can be attached to the top left corners of these pieces; the
bottom left corner of the fourth square in the fourth row is attached to the top left corner of
these pieces, etc. When eventually joining along the sides of the pocket, you simply join
through both thicknesses.
The edging is one row of sc in Soft Sage, one row of dc
in Rose, one row of dc (worked between the stitches of
the previous row) in Forest Green, and one row of sc in
Soft Sage. A detail of the corners is shown at left.
Please feel free to e-mail me with any questions at email@example.com!