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| Intuitive Shell Socks Intuitive: Readily learned or understood; known or perceived by intuition. There's not too much counting or marking here. Your preferences and your perception are the most important details in creating these socks. Relax, enjoy the process, and trust your intuition! |
Size C Hook
Two 1.75 oz skeins Patons Grace (Color Shown: Taupe)
Stitch Markers (or scraps of yarn in a contrasting color
Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 6 sc = 1"; 6 rows of sc = 1"
Toe (Worked in rounds; increases are made in the increases of the previous round for
ease in counting.. This pattern is written for a shoe size 9/10, medium to slightly wide
width. For a narrower foot, you may want to stop increasing when you reach 32 or 36
stitches in the round rather than the 40 directed. The object is to end up with a multiple
of four stitches in the final round of the toe; and if you prefer a shorter toe section than
the 16 rounds shown, feel free to shorten it -- it will be easily made up in the shell
pattern without any "math"!)
Ch 10.
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There
will eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not including the 10th ch). Sc in next 7 ch. 3
sc in last ch. Sc in next 8 ch (across bottom of foundation ch). Mark last stitch. 20 stitches
in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
22 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st (where increase was made in previous round). Sc
in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st (where second increase was made in previous round). Sc in
next 9 st. 24 stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 34
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 36
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
38 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 18 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
40 stitches in round.
Rounds 12 - 16: Sc in each of next 40 stitches. End w/a sl st in the last stitch of the last
round. Move marker to last stitch in last round (just to give you an idea where subsequent
rows are ending, and which side is the bottom of the sock).
Foot (Shell pattern worked in rows with a virtually invisible join)
Shell Row 1 and all subsequent odd-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1 st. 3 dc in next st
(shell cluster made). sk 1 st. *Sc in next st. Sk 1 st. 3 dc in next st. Sk 1 st.* Work as
between * to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Shell Row 2 and all subsequent even rows: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same sp that ch 2 came from.
Sc in center st of next shell cluster. *3 dc in next sc. Sc in center st of next shell cluster.*
Work as between * to end of row. Dc in same sp that ch 2 came from. Join 2/sl st to top of
ch 2.
Alternate Rows 1 and 2 until sock is 2-1/2 inches from the back of the heel when tried on.
End with an even-numbered row (14 rows are shown with this pattern). Remove hook and
secure the last stitch with a stitch marker or piece of contrasting scrap yarn. Do not fasten off;
you'll be coming back here to do the heel shortly.
Ankle
Ankle Row 1: Lay the sock flat, toe down, front side facing up. By eye, determine the sc or
center dc in a shell cluster closest to the upper left hand corner of the sock. Locate the other
end of the yarn from the skein and attach it to this stitch. Continue in pattern across the top of
the sock (20 stitches), ending with a sc or shell cluster at the upper right hand corner of the
sock. Ch 20, skip 20 st. Join w/sl st to the first stitch in this row.
Ankle Row 2 and beyond: Ch 1 or 2 as appropriate, turn and continue in shell pattern as
before, working across the ch (don't worry if your stitch count isn't exactly right and you
have to skip a stitch or add a stitch to get the shell pattern going). About 8 rows works
well here, but you may want to stop after a couple of rows (without fastening off) to go
back and finish the heel (see below). Then, as you're finishing the ankle and cuff, you don't
have to worry about running out of yarn for the heel.
Cuff
Cuff Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st all the way around the top of the sock. Make sure
there's an even number of stitches in this round.
Cuff Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bpdc's and fpdc's around each stitch. The ch 2 serves as
the first stitch in the row, and looks like a bpdc when viewed from the outside of the sock.
Cuff Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc's and bpdc's around each stitch to continue the
ribbing.
Make as many cuff rows as you want, or as yarn allows. Use hdc's instead of dc's if desired
for the final cuff round. Fasten off, sew in end.
Heel
Heel Round 1: Return to the stitch at the bottom of the heel opening where you secured the
stitch with a marker or piece of yarn. Insert hook. Ch 1. Sc in each st to the left hand bottom
of heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the bottom of the heel opening, the stitch that forms
the left side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the top of the heel opening. Sc across
the top of the heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the top of the heel opening, the stitch
that forms the right side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the bottom of the heel
opening. Continue sc to the beginning of this round. Mark last stitch in round. Do not join.
Heel Rounds 2 and beyond: Sc in first st of last round. Sc all the way around the heel
opening, working 2 sc tog to join the stitches on either side of the sc tog from the previous
round, on each side of the heel opening. This will reduce the heel opening, and about 8
rounds will do. End the 8th round just after the sc 2 tog on the right hand side of the heel
opening.
To close the opening, after each sc across the bottom of the heel opening, rmove hook, insert
top to bottom through the corresponding sc in the top of the heel opening, re-insert the hook
into the loop of the sc just completed on the bottom of the heel opening, and pull through. Yo,
pull through, and continue with the next sc on the bottom of the heel opening. If the number of
stitches across the top and the bottom do not correspond, it may be necessary to combine
two top stitches or two bottom stitches into one at some point.
Two 1.75 oz skeins Patons Grace (Color Shown: Taupe)
Stitch Markers (or scraps of yarn in a contrasting color
Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 6 sc = 1"; 6 rows of sc = 1"
Toe (Worked in rounds; increases are made in the increases of the previous round for
ease in counting.. This pattern is written for a shoe size 9/10, medium to slightly wide
width. For a narrower foot, you may want to stop increasing when you reach 32 or 36
stitches in the round rather than the 40 directed. The object is to end up with a multiple
of four stitches in the final round of the toe; and if you prefer a shorter toe section than
the 16 rounds shown, feel free to shorten it -- it will be easily made up in the shell
pattern without any "math"!)
Ch 10.
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There
will eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not including the 10th ch). Sc in next 7 ch. 3
sc in last ch. Sc in next 8 ch (across bottom of foundation ch). Mark last stitch. 20 stitches
in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
22 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st (where increase was made in previous round). Sc
in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st (where second increase was made in previous round). Sc in
next 9 st. 24 stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 34
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 36
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
38 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 18 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
40 stitches in round.
Rounds 12 - 16: Sc in each of next 40 stitches. End w/a sl st in the last stitch of the last
round. Move marker to last stitch in last round (just to give you an idea where subsequent
rows are ending, and which side is the bottom of the sock).
Foot (Shell pattern worked in rows with a virtually invisible join)
Shell Row 1 and all subsequent odd-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1 st. 3 dc in next st
(shell cluster made). sk 1 st. *Sc in next st. Sk 1 st. 3 dc in next st. Sk 1 st.* Work as
between * to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Shell Row 2 and all subsequent even rows: Ch 2, turn. Dc in same sp that ch 2 came from.
Sc in center st of next shell cluster. *3 dc in next sc. Sc in center st of next shell cluster.*
Work as between * to end of row. Dc in same sp that ch 2 came from. Join 2/sl st to top of
ch 2.
Alternate Rows 1 and 2 until sock is 2-1/2 inches from the back of the heel when tried on.
End with an even-numbered row (14 rows are shown with this pattern). Remove hook and
secure the last stitch with a stitch marker or piece of contrasting scrap yarn. Do not fasten off;
you'll be coming back here to do the heel shortly.
Ankle
Ankle Row 1: Lay the sock flat, toe down, front side facing up. By eye, determine the sc or
center dc in a shell cluster closest to the upper left hand corner of the sock. Locate the other
end of the yarn from the skein and attach it to this stitch. Continue in pattern across the top of
the sock (20 stitches), ending with a sc or shell cluster at the upper right hand corner of the
sock. Ch 20, skip 20 st. Join w/sl st to the first stitch in this row.
Ankle Row 2 and beyond: Ch 1 or 2 as appropriate, turn and continue in shell pattern as
before, working across the ch (don't worry if your stitch count isn't exactly right and you
have to skip a stitch or add a stitch to get the shell pattern going). About 8 rows works
well here, but you may want to stop after a couple of rows (without fastening off) to go
back and finish the heel (see below). Then, as you're finishing the ankle and cuff, you don't
have to worry about running out of yarn for the heel.
Cuff
Cuff Row 1: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st all the way around the top of the sock. Make sure
there's an even number of stitches in this round.
Cuff Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Alternate bpdc's and fpdc's around each stitch. The ch 2 serves as
the first stitch in the row, and looks like a bpdc when viewed from the outside of the sock.
Cuff Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Alternate fpdc's and bpdc's around each stitch to continue the
ribbing.
Make as many cuff rows as you want, or as yarn allows. Use hdc's instead of dc's if desired
for the final cuff round. Fasten off, sew in end.
Heel
Heel Round 1: Return to the stitch at the bottom of the heel opening where you secured the
stitch with a marker or piece of yarn. Insert hook. Ch 1. Sc in each st to the left hand bottom
of heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the bottom of the heel opening, the stitch that forms
the left side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the top of the heel opening. Sc across
the top of the heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the top of the heel opening, the stitch
that forms the right side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the bottom of the heel
opening. Continue sc to the beginning of this round. Mark last stitch in round. Do not join.
Heel Rounds 2 and beyond: Sc in first st of last round. Sc all the way around the heel
opening, working 2 sc tog to join the stitches on either side of the sc tog from the previous
round, on each side of the heel opening. This will reduce the heel opening, and about 8
rounds will do. End the 8th round just after the sc 2 tog on the right hand side of the heel
opening.
To close the opening, after each sc across the bottom of the heel opening, rmove hook, insert
top to bottom through the corresponding sc in the top of the heel opening, re-insert the hook
into the loop of the sc just completed on the bottom of the heel opening, and pull through. Yo,
pull through, and continue with the next sc on the bottom of the heel opening. If the number of
stitches across the top and the bottom do not correspond, it may be necessary to combine
two top stitches or two bottom stitches into one at some point.
| If you have any questions, comments or corrections with regard to this pattern, please email me at mrsd2688@yahoo.com. |