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| Husband Socks Sturdy, thick and warm (they use twice as much yarn as a conventional pair of socks), these ribbed men's socks are made using Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light. I found this yarn a little splitty, but the super soft, almost felted quality of the finished piece completely hid the joining of the rows at the bottom of the socks. Size C Hook Four 1.75 oz. skeins Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light (Color Shown: 4207) Stitch Markers (or scaps of yarn in a contrasting color) Tapestry Needle Gauge: 6 sc = 1"; 6 rows of sc = 1" |
Toe (Worked in rounds; increases are made in the increases of the previous round for
ease in counting.. This pattern is written for a men's shoe size 9, medium width. A
smaller or larger sock can be made by subtracting rows from or adding rows to the foot
portion. You just want to make sure you end up on an even row. As far as width is
concerned, this pattern calls for 44 stitches per row for the foot portion. Adjust as
necessary; the object is to end up with a multiple of four stitches.
Ch 10.
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There
will eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not including the 10th ch). Sc in next 7 ch. 3
sc in last ch. Sc in next 8 ch (across bottom of foundation ch). Mark last stitch. 20 stitches
in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
22 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st (where increase was made in previous round). Sc
in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st (where second increase was made in previous round). Sc in
next 9 st. 24 stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 34
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 36
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
38 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 18 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
40 stitches in round.
Round 12: Sc in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 19 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
42 stitches in round.
Round 13: Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 20 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 20 st.
44 stitches in round.
Round 14: Sc in next 43 st. Sl st in 44th st. Move marker to last stitch in this round (just to
give you an idea where subsequent rows are ending, and which side is the bottom of the
sock).
Foot (The ch 1 in the first row, and turning chs in subsequent rows count as the first
stitch in each row)
With the sock lying flat and the top (unmarked) side of the sock facing you, determine where
the center 15 stitches across the top are located and mark them.
Foot Row 1: Ch 1. Sc in each sc up to the first of the 15 center top stitches (it took 13 sc
from the center back for this pattern as written). *Fpdc around next 3 sc. Sc in next sc.*
Repeat between * 3 more times (for a total of four ribs, containing three fpdc's each). Sc
in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Foot Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 43 stitches. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Foot Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc up to first rib. *Fpdc around next 3 fpdc's. Sc in
next sc.* Repeat between * 3 more times. Sc in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to
top of ch 1.
Alternate Rows 2 and 3 until sock is 2-3/4 inches from the back of the heel when tried on.
End with an even-numbered row (30 rows are shown with this pattern).
Foot Row 31: Sc to within 3 sc's of first rib. 2 sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st,
and continue in pattern for the 4 ribs. 2 sc in next sc. 2 sc in next sc. Sc in each stitch to end
of row. 48 stitches in row.
Row 32: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 47 stitches. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1. 48 stitches in row.
Row 33: As Row 3, but with 48 stitches in row.
Row 34: As Row 32. At the end of this row, remove hook and secure the last stitch with a
stitch marker or piece of contrasting scrap yarn. Do not fasten off; you'll be coming back here
to do the heel shortly.
Ankle
Ankle Row 1: With the outside of the sock facing you, attach yarn at the sc just before the
first rib. Ch 1 (this will count as the first stitch in the row). Work the four ribs as before
(including the sc just after the fourth rib). Lay the sock flat, ribs on top, and determine by eye
the uppermost left hand stitch and crochet up to it (it was four more sc's in the pattern shown).
Ch 24, skip 24. Sc in next st. Sc in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Ankle Row 2 and all subsequent even-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 47 st. Join
w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Ankle Row 3 and all subsequent odd-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Work rib pattern (4
fpdc's, 1 sc) all the way around the sock (to establish the new ribs, do the fpdc's around the
sc's from Row 2). Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
You may want to stop here (don't fasten off!) and go back and finish the heel (see below)
with yarn from another skein or the end of the skein you're working with. Then, as
you're finishing the ankle and cuff, you don't have to worry about running out of yarn
for the heel.
Continue in pattern as far as desired (or as far as yarn allows!) End with an odd-numbered
(ribbing) row.
Cuff
Row 1: Ch 1 (do not turn). Fpdc 2 tog the 1st and 3rd stitch in each rib cluster, with 2 sc in
the sc between each rib cluster. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Row 2: Ch 1 (do not turn). Sc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Fasten off, sew in end.
Heel
Heel Round 1: Return to the stitch at the bottom of the heel opening where you secured the
stitch with a marker or piece of yarn. Insert hook. Ch 1. Sc in each st to the left hand bottom
of heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the bottom of the heel opening, the stitch that forms
the left side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the top of the heel opening. Sc across
the top of the heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the top of the heel opening, the stitch
that forms the right side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the bottom of the heel
opening. Continue sc to the beginning of this round. Mark last stitch in round. Do not join.
Heel Rounds 2 and beyond: Sc in first st of last round. Sc all the way around the heel
opening, working 2 sc tog to join the stitches on either side of the sc tog from the previous
round, on each side of the heel opening. This will reduce the heel opening, and about 9
rounds will do. End the 9th round just after the sc 2 tog on the right hand side of the heel
opening.
To close the opening, after each sc across the bottom of the heel opening, rmove hook, insert
top to bottom through the corresponding sc in the top of the heel opening, re-insert the hook
into the loop of the sc just completed on the bottom of the heel opening, and pull through. Yo,
pull through, and continue with the next sc on the bottom of the heel opening. If the number of
stitches across the top and the bottom do not correspond, it may be necessary to combine
two top stitches or two bottom stitches into one at some point.
If you have any questions, comments or corrections, please email me at
mrsd2688@yahoo.com.
ease in counting.. This pattern is written for a men's shoe size 9, medium width. A
smaller or larger sock can be made by subtracting rows from or adding rows to the foot
portion. You just want to make sure you end up on an even row. As far as width is
concerned, this pattern calls for 44 stitches per row for the foot portion. Adjust as
necessary; the object is to end up with a multiple of four stitches.
Ch 10.
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10th ch does not count as first stitch in round. There
will eventually be 3 sc worked in this ch st, not including the 10th ch). Sc in next 7 ch. 3
sc in last ch. Sc in next 8 ch (across bottom of foundation ch). Mark last stitch. 20 stitches
in round.
Round 2: 2 sc in top of first sc of Round 1. Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
22 stitches in round.
Round 3: Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st (where increase was made in previous round). Sc
in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st (where second increase was made in previous round). Sc in
next 9 st. 24 stitches in round.
Round 4: Sc in next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 26
stitches in round.
Round 5: Sc in next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 28
stitches in round.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 30
stitches in round.
Round 7: Sc in next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 32
stitches in round.
Round 8: Sc in next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 34
stitches in round.
Round 9: Sc in next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st. 36
stitches in round.
Round 10: Sc in next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
38 stitches in round.
Round 11: Sc in next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 18 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
40 stitches in round.
Round 12: Sc in next 10 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 19 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 9 st.
42 stitches in round.
Round 13: Sc in next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 20 st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next 20 st.
44 stitches in round.
Round 14: Sc in next 43 st. Sl st in 44th st. Move marker to last stitch in this round (just to
give you an idea where subsequent rows are ending, and which side is the bottom of the
sock).
Foot (The ch 1 in the first row, and turning chs in subsequent rows count as the first
stitch in each row)
With the sock lying flat and the top (unmarked) side of the sock facing you, determine where
the center 15 stitches across the top are located and mark them.
Foot Row 1: Ch 1. Sc in each sc up to the first of the 15 center top stitches (it took 13 sc
from the center back for this pattern as written). *Fpdc around next 3 sc. Sc in next sc.*
Repeat between * 3 more times (for a total of four ribs, containing three fpdc's each). Sc
in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Foot Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 43 stitches. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Foot Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc up to first rib. *Fpdc around next 3 fpdc's. Sc in
next sc.* Repeat between * 3 more times. Sc in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to
top of ch 1.
Alternate Rows 2 and 3 until sock is 2-3/4 inches from the back of the heel when tried on.
End with an even-numbered row (30 rows are shown with this pattern).
Foot Row 31: Sc to within 3 sc's of first rib. 2 sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st,
and continue in pattern for the 4 ribs. 2 sc in next sc. 2 sc in next sc. Sc in each stitch to end
of row. 48 stitches in row.
Row 32: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 47 stitches. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1. 48 stitches in row.
Row 33: As Row 3, but with 48 stitches in row.
Row 34: As Row 32. At the end of this row, remove hook and secure the last stitch with a
stitch marker or piece of contrasting scrap yarn. Do not fasten off; you'll be coming back here
to do the heel shortly.
Ankle
Ankle Row 1: With the outside of the sock facing you, attach yarn at the sc just before the
first rib. Ch 1 (this will count as the first stitch in the row). Work the four ribs as before
(including the sc just after the fourth rib). Lay the sock flat, ribs on top, and determine by eye
the uppermost left hand stitch and crochet up to it (it was four more sc's in the pattern shown).
Ch 24, skip 24. Sc in next st. Sc in each stitch to end of row. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Ankle Row 2 and all subsequent even-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 47 st. Join
w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Ankle Row 3 and all subsequent odd-numbered rows: Ch 1, turn. Work rib pattern (4
fpdc's, 1 sc) all the way around the sock (to establish the new ribs, do the fpdc's around the
sc's from Row 2). Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
You may want to stop here (don't fasten off!) and go back and finish the heel (see below)
with yarn from another skein or the end of the skein you're working with. Then, as
you're finishing the ankle and cuff, you don't have to worry about running out of yarn
for the heel.
Continue in pattern as far as desired (or as far as yarn allows!) End with an odd-numbered
(ribbing) row.
Cuff
Row 1: Ch 1 (do not turn). Fpdc 2 tog the 1st and 3rd stitch in each rib cluster, with 2 sc in
the sc between each rib cluster. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Row 2: Ch 1 (do not turn). Sc in each stitch all the way around. Join w/sl st to top of ch 1.
Fasten off, sew in end.
Heel
Heel Round 1: Return to the stitch at the bottom of the heel opening where you secured the
stitch with a marker or piece of yarn. Insert hook. Ch 1. Sc in each st to the left hand bottom
of heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the bottom of the heel opening, the stitch that forms
the left side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the top of the heel opening. Sc across
the top of the heel opening. Sc 3 tog the last stitch in the top of the heel opening, the stitch
that forms the right side of the heel opening, and the first stitch in the bottom of the heel
opening. Continue sc to the beginning of this round. Mark last stitch in round. Do not join.
Heel Rounds 2 and beyond: Sc in first st of last round. Sc all the way around the heel
opening, working 2 sc tog to join the stitches on either side of the sc tog from the previous
round, on each side of the heel opening. This will reduce the heel opening, and about 9
rounds will do. End the 9th round just after the sc 2 tog on the right hand side of the heel
opening.
To close the opening, after each sc across the bottom of the heel opening, rmove hook, insert
top to bottom through the corresponding sc in the top of the heel opening, re-insert the hook
into the loop of the sc just completed on the bottom of the heel opening, and pull through. Yo,
pull through, and continue with the next sc on the bottom of the heel opening. If the number of
stitches across the top and the bottom do not correspond, it may be necessary to combine
two top stitches or two bottom stitches into one at some point.
If you have any questions, comments or corrections, please email me at
mrsd2688@yahoo.com.